FREE SEWING PATTERN. The Cool Clutch
I love making handmade gifts, it is just so much more personal and really shows you care enough to share your time and efforts. So, with the Christmas run-up fast approaching, I thought this would be a great time to share my easy Cool Clutch Tutorial with you.
I love a clutch bag, so handy on a night out, but also invaluable in the day. The fashion is for huge handbags at the moment, which for me means I can never find anything. I even have a light in there so I can see what’s in the bottom.
I use a huge leather bag to cart around my array of ever-growing day-junk, and I use a clutch bag inside it for my purse/phone etc so I can easily get to them.
This is a great pattern if you are new to bag making, or you want a quick make for sew to sell or gifting.
You can make these from just about any fabric light or medium weight, as there are few seams. I have made them in everything from denim to satin. You could even decorate or embroider the fabric first however you would like, then just dive in!
Lets Go !
COOL CLUTCH PDF PATTERN – Make sure you toggle ‘actual size’ when you send to print or your printer could automatically reduce the size. There is a 1” square control box shown on the pattern. Stick the 4 sheets together as directed on the pieces.
- Outer fabric – Any light to medium weight fabric of your choice.
- Lining – Any light weight fabric of your choice. Use a contrasting print or a striking colour of satin.
- Extra firm fusible interfacing – such as Fusible canvas or Decovil Light
- Medium weight fusible interlining (MWFI) – I use Vilene F220
- One Magnetic clasp fastener
- All Purpose thread to match outer
From pattern Piece A cut
- 1 outer,
- 1 lining,
- 1 MWFI,
- 1 extra firm fusible interfacing, (trim it down by 1cm (3/8″) all the way around to reduce bulk)
- You could add a layer of compressed wadding too for extra squishyness. (Trim down also)
Additionally cut pocket piece B 18 x 18 cm (7 x 7″) – cut
- 1 lining,
- 1 MWFI.
Seam allowance: 1cm (3/8”) throughout. The seam allowance is included in the pattern piece
Approximate finished dimensions : W26cm×H14cm×D2.5cm (W11.5”×H5.5”×D1”)
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Fuse interfacing to lining and pocket
Fuse the MWFI to the wrong side of the lining fabric piece A and the pocket piece B. Press well from both sides and set pocket piece aside.
Attach the magnetic clasp to lining
Attach the male part (the slimmer part) of the magnetic clasp to the top curved edge of your lining piece A, centrally 4cm (1 1/2”) down. I like to add a bit of firm interfacing to the back to strengthen – if you need a reminder how to attach magnetic clasps I have a quick tutorial here
Make the pocket
Press a 1cm (3/8″) hem up on two opposite sides of your pocket piece B.
Fold this piece in half across its width so that the two folded ends line up, and right sides are together. Pin the sides.
Stitch down each of the short sides 1cm (3/8″) from the edge, leaving the bottom folded edge open. Trim the corners to reduce bulk.
Now flip through and poke out the corners with something blunt – a ruler or a thick knitting needle. (My weapon of choice is a chopstick). Press flat. Edge stitch the top folded edge if you wish.
Lay your body lining piece A with the right side facing up and curved edge at the top.
Grab your pocket, make sure that the open end is at the bottom, and topstitched edge at the top. Lay your pocket onto the lining piece, centrally 16.5 cm (6.5”) down from the top curved edge.
Pin the pocket in place – make sure it’s straight!
Stitch along the two sides and along the bottom of the pocket 3mm / 1/8″ from the edge, which also closes up and hides the opening in the bottom of the pocket.- clever huh! Don’t sew across the top or you will have a patch instead of a pocket 🙂 I slid my branding label in whilst stitching one side.
Press. Lay this to one side.
Get yourself a cup of coffee and admire your work!
Fuse extra firm interfacing to outer fabric
Lay your outer fabric piece A wrong side up. Centre your extra firm interfacing (trimmed down by 1cm (3/8″) all round) and fuse. You should have 1cm (3/8”) of fabric showing on all four sides. (I’ve used black canvas here so you can see it clearly)
Press up a 1cm (3/8”) hem on the bottom edge of both outer and lining. If you are using vinyl, use Wonderclips rather than pressing. I’m sure you know why !
Join outer and lining
Flip so the two pieces are right sides together and pin in place. Make sure the two pieces line up exactly, and that the two bottom edges remain folded back as shown.
Using a 1cm (3/8”) seam, start from the straight folded bottom edge and stitch all the way around the long sides and curved top, leaving the folded bottom edge open.
You can use the interfacing as a stitching guide, sewing just 1mm (1/16″) outside it.
Trim your seam allowances and clip corners to reduce bulk. Then clip the edges on the curved top edge to help it lie flat after turning through.
Now, turn your bag right side out – Looking good? You’re nearly there.
Push your fingers into the bag and firmly push out the sides and curved edge then iron your bag flat.
We are going to fold your bag into thirds.
Fold the bottom straight edge up by about 14cm (5 1/2″), and the top curved edge down over it. The curved edge should sit 1cm (3/8”) from the bottom fold. When you have your clutch looking the way you want it, press those folds flat.
Time to add the magnetic clasp to the outer fabric
Fold the top flap edge down and check where the nipple of the male part of the clasp lands. Mark
Attach the female part of the clasp here. Remember – you are just going to snip through the outer fabric. Hold the lining back separately whilst you do this. I used a small piece of firm interfacing on the back to strengthen again.
Closing the bag
Open out again, and with the bottom edges still folded in, topstitch 3mm (1/8”) all the way across this edge. This closes the folded edge and gives a neat finish.
Stitch sides of bag
Fold into place again and close the clasp. Wiggle the sides of the bag until the positioning looks even on both sides and pin in place.
You will see the edges are tapered in slightly on both sides to give a little extra tolerance.
Open the clasp carefully, holding the bottom third in place, and make sure you are happy with the placement of the sides and they look even.
Stitch down each side about 3mm (1/8″) in from the edge, back-tacking at start and finish.
Trim any loose threads and give your bag a final press
And there you have it – your finished masterpiece ready for its first night out!
If you would like to make a smaller version as a coin purse, just reduce the PDF size to print at 65%.
Hope you enjoyed my tutorial and found the instructions easy to follow.
Tag your makes with #SpencerOgg or #SewWithSo
We are running a competition this week on my FB bag sewing board to make this clutch using charity shop finds or re-purposing something from your wardrobe. Do join in with the group below. Runs 28th Sept to 7th October
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